If you have read my blogs, you may have noticed that I went through years of experimenting & improving my harps, coming across all sorts of problems/improvable issues. On this page I’d like to compile a list of basic things that I’d like to see (or not to see) in a new harp of quality, or harp accessories by all means. Sometimes I’m stating the obvious, but some details may be new to you… This list is a work in progress, I’ll add stuff as I think of it. If you’re interested in more nitty-gritty harp stuff, feel fee to check out my various blog posts https://harpmusic.ie/blog/.

Send me a message if you can think of something that I forgot to mention!

Harps

Tuning Pegs & Tuning Keys

-Please no sharp edges where the string meets the tuning peg!

-Please no sharp angles on the “tuning end” of the tuning peg, someone could get hurt, and it damages the harp bag.

-the tuning key should fit perfectly. Ideally the tuning peg wouldn’t be too rounded off (or tapered?) either. But the key should not be loose. A perfect fitting tuning key speeds up the tuning process.

-a coated tuning key is a plus but not a must. The coating prevents denting the sound board if the key falls of. More important is a well fitting tuning key – it is less likely to slip off.

-the tuning pin turns smoothly without getting stuck in certain positions.

Bridge pins

-adjustable (in/out)

-Please no sharp edges! If you think you need to use sharp edged bridge pins (!), please wind the strings in a way to make them go parallel through the groove (and not at a slight angle to keep the tuning peg tight. That’s a fair point from a technical point of view, but I also wonder if a “straight” string would not produce a slightly better sound).

Windings

If I’m stringing a harp with “stretchy” strings, that’ll give a lot of “windings” at first. I’ll let them settle for a week, then pull through again, to straighten the angle (see comparison in picture below – “C” is straight, “D” at an angle. By the way, in this particular case, the hole of the tunig peg is not aligned with the groove of the bridge pin, but nearer to the neck/curve of the harp. Therefore I even wound the string outwards, which I usually don’t do. You’d want to get the number of windings exact, otherwise the string will hop off the peg).).

 

Levers

-levers where fingers don’t get stuck & squashed (ouch!) – not mentioning brands, check for yourself.

-levers that are (up-down) adjustable (stating the obvious but in the treble there is less room).

-levers in line with the string so they meet exactly where they should, without delay (and sound).

-easy action, not hard going

-obviously not sharp edged (I’ve come across those too!)

-colour coded (I used to do that with tipp-ex or blue & red nail varnish, some use little coloured rings or tapes)

-check to make sure they are not buzzing, especially when not engaged. To check, play the string as a harpist would do – check with both hands (sides), with index and thumb (different playing direction).

-When servicing a harp, check especially the lowest lever for tightness (they tend to come apart through many ins-and-outs-of-the-harp-bag).

Strings

-when cutting off strings, if possible use scissors rather than pliers. When “clipping” off strings (nylon/gut) rather than “cutting” them, the end gets flattened, and sharp edged! Many woolly jumper or fancy dress got caught in those sharp ends, and it hurts the fingers too. Maybe apply some heat (a lighter) to burn off sharp edged nylon strings (in a ventilated area. Don’t do it with carbon fibre strings, apparently it’s toxic.). I use a nail clipper to correct sharp edges on gut string ends.

With metal/metal core strings: bend the end in, not only do fabrics get caught in those ends, but many a finger started bleeding hitting those “stings” by accident. I even tape sharp string ends. Wind them in a way that they point inwards, towards the neck, not out.

Sharp string ends also destroy harp bags.

-Some strings are long enough to get 2 strings out of one package. When “clipping” off a long string, the flattened end may become too thick to introduce into the hole of the tuning peg or at the hole the sound board. Here too, “cutting” is the answer.

-Inside the harp: Use a piece of thick gut string with the harp knot, or (rounded) wood. No nails or other sharp edged items. sometimes one has to pull to get the end out from the back, and harpist’s fingers don’t like sharp objects.

As I don’t like waste, I started using used strimming wire bits (plastic), instead of throwing them in the bin. One may argue that it could affect the sound (that has to be proven yet). Instinctively, I would prefer wood or gut string bits. Wood for sound, and gut possibly because it bends and makes making the harp knot a quick job.

-No sharp edge where the string meets the sound board please.

Harp Shape

-I like when a harp can lie on its back (inside or outside the bag). This is usually the case with square sound boxes. Or with well aligned back feet. On the other hand when back feet are longer, they shift the balance point of the harp when being played/tilted, and make the harp feel heavier on one’s shoulder.

-On this note, a harp should be well balanced, not too heavy on top. Erard got it right.

-Four feet rather than three – for stability.

-I don’t like sharp angles, even on a “boxy” harp. It may look like a great design, but anything that digs/cuts into body parts or clothes is not nice. I’d suggest: round off even 90 degree angles, definitely anything sharper. Especially where the harp meets the shoulder, the smoother the better.

-Right arm: the ledge where the right arm meets the sound board: I definitely like that rounded off (it’s done on pedal harps). Rounded off and smooth (no “sticky-ish” varnish, but well polished bee’s wax or similar).

-When it comes to design, flowing curves are nicer than bits bulging out for no reason, even ever so slightly.

Harp Bags

-A rucksack system is lovely, but make sure no carabiner hooks are digging into delicate shoulders or woolly jumpers (I kept getting caught and wrapped the hooks with old socks!). Ideally where the two shoulder straps meet the harp bag, it should be sewn on instead of hooks and rings. Padding would be nice between the strap and the shoulder.

-A single strap: if the material is too smooth, it can slip off a shoulder (especially a woman’s shoulder which may not be as wide and angular), and land the harp with a bang on the floor. Some non-slip padding would be good here.

–An easy-to-get-in harp bag (hard to get by!!!). Most harp makers are twice the size of their customers. Easy game for a strong, tall man, but as an average-size woman I have struggled with many a harp bag! Not to talk about a 10 year old.

-If the harp bag needs to fold open completely and takes up 4m2 of floor space, this is not very practical (especially if the floor is dirty it’s no fun, and one has to think of the other band members too).

-If the foot end is closed (as in: you can’t zip it open), and one needs to lift in the harp, while holding the bag with one’s knee, or has to step into the harp bag (with shoes?) that doesn’t look very elegant, and is not practical wearing a long dress. Hard on the lower back too.

-If the feet of the harp are angular, or sticking out, or have rubber feet, it’s even harder to get them into a bag with a closed foot end. Rubber “feet” are good though against slipping when the harp is standing. Maybe some sort of “silk sock” would be the answer here, to make the harp slide into the bag easy. Ok, plasic bag works too but again not very elegant.

-If you’re in Ireland you want a harp bag that closes fully without gaps, also in the horizontal position.

-I like harp bags which have a lot of handles (on each possible side). Especially for getting harps in and out of cars.

-The main shoulder strap(s) ideally is/are going around the harp bag, so that the weight of the harp is carried from below & doesn’t tear the harp bag near the zip (is there a smarter way of saying this?).

Acessories/Extras

-Fitting pick ups: Make sure the leads/parts are secured and cannot vibrate at any frequency and create a buzz. No velcro – creates distortion. Fix the socket so that it’s easily accessible for the player without having to stand up, or crawl inside the harp.

-Fitting led lights: Make sure the leads/parts are secured and cannot vibrate at any frequency and create a buzz. Easy access to battery, and a switch that one isn’t likely to hit by accident.